Carolina Praying Mantis Nymph - FREE Fruit Flies & 32 oz. Habitat-Educational and Fun

Regular price $12.95 Sale

You will receive:

(1) Carolina Praying Mantis (Stagmomantis carolina)  L-3 Stage


Small container of Hydei Fruit Flies

One 32 oz. container with a vented lid 

Coconut fiber 

Small piece of forest moss to set on top of your Coconut Fiber 

One fruit tree or weeping pine branch for a perch

Helpful Care Instructions


This 32 oz. habitat will give you everything you will need to enjoy your new mantis for about 3 to 4 more weeks.  After a month your mantis will likely be too big for the container it arrived with.  If you still plan on keeping your mantis we suggest you purchase a Mantis Habitat.  You can find the habitats on our store page.  We have raised many mantis with these habitats and they work very well.

The Carolina mantis is a fantastic species for the beginner, proving one of the easiest to keep in captivity. Not only is it large, but very tame, and will tolerate handling.  Diet is no problem and shedding problems will rarely occur.   

Nymph Care:

Please Note:

The Carolina mantis is a great hunter and can display very beautiful shades of green.  The nymphs we sell have been well looked after from the moment they hatched.  

To keep your nymphs(s) healthy you  should keep these points in mind:

You should lightly mist the sides of your habitat every second day. Do not over feed your nymph(s).  Add no more than 5 to 10 flies to the habitat every two days.  If there are still flies in the habitat on the second day wait another day before you add more flies.  Keep this in mind.  If your mantis is surrounded by too many flies, he will stress and die.   They need moisture to shed.  Always make sure the coconut fiber at the bottom of the habitat is moist at all times.  Try not to handle the nymph(s) until they reach the L-6 or L-7 stage growth. Finally, keep the habitat away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.

Carolina Mantis Care:


This species of mantis will survive in fair conditions. It's best to keep it around 20-26 C (68-78.8 F). Room temperature will work best. Warmer temperature speeds up the metabolism of the mantis and will shorten its life span and in contrast, cooler temperature slows its metabolism and lengthens the life span, but both extremes could kill it. Humidity should be around 60-65%. This could be achieved by spraying or watering the substrate 3 times a week. The main purpose of humidity is to help the mantis molt too much humidity will cripple the mantis during molts, and too little will hinder it from emerging from the old skin. Just make sure it doesn't get too dry or too damp.


This species is quite large. The suggested height is usually 3x the mantis length and 2x for width. They require sticks and leaves for perching and to hang from for molting and catching insects. They are very active and may need some space to roam around or to pursue their prey so adjust caging according to their size.


This species eats very well. They are not picky. Crickets, mealworms and medium size roaches are the best food for them as they grow past L-9 to L-10 stage, but you can feed them anything else that will fit in its claws. It's recommended that the size of the feeder insect does not exceed 1/3 the mantis length. Even though they are voracious and will attack anything, do not offer them poisonous insects or wasps or bees as these could seriously harm the mantis. 
You can either drop the food inside the tank and if the mantis is hungry, it will go after the prey or you can feed them by hand: Use a pair of tweezers to hold the cricket and wave it in front of the mantis.  If it's hungry, it will turn its head to stare directly at the insect and will snatch it from the tweezers or you may need to pierce the insect and put it to the mantis mouth and if it likes the taste, it'll grab on to it and begin to feed. Do not overfeed them, overfeeding will shorten their life span also. Feed them as much as it will eat in one day and do not feed it for another 2 days. As for watering, mantids get their water from their prey, but lightly mist the enclosure every couple of days, and occasionally, a mantis will drink off of droplets from a branch or a side of the tank. This also helps keep humidity levels safe.


A mantis will stop eating a day or 2 (sometimes more) prior to its molt. Do not be alarmed if one day your mantis is chowing down on a cricket and the next it refuses its food, it's simply getting ready to shed its skin. Mantids molt every 2-3 weeks as babies and the time in between each molt increases as they get older so their last molt into adulthood can sometimes take as long as 3-4 weeks. It takes about 7 molts for females and about 6 for males. That's why males tend to mature earlier than females and they also die faster. During molts, it is vital that you do not disturb them. The mantis will hang upside down from a branch or the screen lid and will sometimes shake or spasm violently. Then after a while, it works out of its old skin and will hang out to dry. Once it's dried, it will resume eating and being its normal self after a couple days. To ensure their safety, mist them every day while young nymphs to prevent any blockade during molting.


This species is very easy o breed. Pair up a male and a female 2 weeks after their last molt and if they are ready, the male will try to climb on the female to initiate breeding. Be sure that both sexes are well fed prior to mating. And before mating, it is advised to give the female a food item to busy herself with while the male tries to mate with her. Afterwards, he will run away, leaving the female to make the eggs. Feed her as much as she will eat during this time and she will lay about 6-12 oothecae (plural for ootheca).


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